Excursions in Nepal: September 2016
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank my friend
Dhananjay who was the major influence in my decision to make Nepal and ABC as
my destination. Thanks Dhananjay for suggesting me to have one of my best trips
ever.
I would also want to thank Gaurav who
gave me valuable tips about Nepal as well as trekking which definitely came in
handy.
I want to thank
Kim Dinan & Brian for their blog, as I virtually followed the same route
for ABC and didn’t hire a guide or anybody. It was immensely helpful and
motivating as well.
Finally I would love to dedicate this
writing to all my family members and friends who read my write-up about
Bandhavgarh and urged me to write an account of my stint in Nepal as well.
Chapter I: The Preparation
July 2016 is when I started thinking
about my 1st international trip. Must have been around my birthday,
on 24th. I was going to do it, hopefully with my friend, but even
alone if it came to that. Unfortunately my friend couldn’t make it because of
some family related emergencies and here I was, all alone set out on my maiden
international voyage…
I was scanning
through various destinations and narrowed down to two of my neighboring
countries. Sri Lanka is full of places to visit, but it’s more of a place where
you’d go with your family/friends. Nepal and the adventures it offered were
more the kind of place I felt like visiting all alone. Once finalized, I went
on a spree of online research and also started gathering from friends and
family about who had been there and what’s the best of Nepal that I can capture
in my trip. As I was going alone, there were no dos and don’ts either. I could
decide my way freely and as I fancied. So, after a lot of iterations, I
finalized on Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Trek and a short visit to the Chitwan
National Park which is famous for one-horned rhinos and tigers. Being a
wildlife freak, I couldn’t drop this one at all.
After booking
the flight tickets (I got it damn cheap thanks to my Jet Miles), I started
scouting for the best and the cheapest places to stay in Kathmandu, Pokhara and
Chitwan. After going through hundreds of options and many websites, I finally
booked Trekkers’ Home (USD 11 per night) for my stay in Kathmandu and Harvest
Moon Guest House (USD 12 per night) for my stay in Pokhara. Happy with the
steal deals, I was just hoping the places turn out to be worth what the reviews
promised. I didn’t book the Chitwan hotel as I was still contemplating about
whether I would manage the ABC trek in 8 days.
ABC trek, as
they say, is a moderately difficult one with clear signs to follow and it’s difficult
to get lost. I read many blogs and travel stories but found myself pretty well
connected with the one that Kim Dinan
had written and I decided to follow in the footsteps. Mine was a pretty vague
and half baked preparation according to many. I, however, wanted to do things
‘not so well planned’ and wanted to have some thrill and impromptu decision
making. Once I was sure I was going to do the trek in 8 days, I also finalized
the itinerary with 2 nights in it at Chitwan National Park.
Annapurna I,
the tenth highest peak in the world, is one of the most visited and the Annapurna
Circuit is one of the most famous in the trekking world. If I had a chance and had
time on my hand, I would’ve done the entire circuit. However, an 8 day trek
seemed more like it so I was keen on doing the ABC. Annapurna Conservation Area
is a protected reserve in Nepal and one with a picturesque landscape anywhere
you go. My Trek route was as follows:
Day 1(18th
Sep): Pokhara to Nayapul by Bus and Nayapul to Ulleri (Trek) and stay at Ulleri
Day 2: Ulleri
to Ghorepani and Stay at Ghorepani
Day 3: Poon Hill
trek (early morning), Trek to Tadapani and stay at Tadapani.
Day 4: Tadapani
to Chhomrong and stay at Chhomrong
Day 5:
Chhomrong to Himalaya Guest House (HGH) and stay at HGH
Day 6: HGH to
ABC and stay at ABC
Day 7: ABC to
Chhomrong and stay at Chhomrong
Day 8 (25th
Sep): Chhomrong to Nayapul and back to Pokhara
This seemed
like a very solid plan on paper and I was determined to stick to it. We’ll see
later what happened and whether I stuck to the same or not.
Chitwan was
like a corollary to my theorem and I didn’t quite plan what exactly I would do
in Chitwan. I was sure, however, that I’ll do a safari or two exploring the
wildlife.
Chapter II: The Expedition
Part 1: GETTING THERE
After gathering
all the resources (Trekking shoes, Warm clothes, gloves, bag etc.), I was
finally all set to leave for my solo expedition. My driver dropped me to the
airport on the morning of 16th Sep and my journey had begun. Going
through the check-in formalities was thankfully a breeze, which made my mind be
more at ease. All set to board the flight, I had mixed feelings in my mind. On
the one hand, I was super-excited about embarking on a truly wanderlust
vacation; and on the other I was praying for everything to go safe.
The flight was
comfortable and the food/beverages hearty. The view while landing at Kathmandu
was a scenic one as Kathmandu is situated in a valley and the city itself is
full of 2-3 storied buildings giving an appearance of the game of blocks we
played during childhood; when viewed from the top. The immigration process was
a breeze, too as Nepal is a friendly country and a co-member of SAARC. Friendly
guides do tend to board your cab, offering porter & guide services and/or
sightseeing assistance. I, however, to their disappointment, wasn’t going to
need any. Nevertheless, the guy who met me did help me with the local knowledge
and left a card with me. I was carrying enough Indian currency in the form of
Rs.100 notes as I had gathered that they are accepted everywhere. Later, I got
to know that almost all denominations are accepted in majority of shops,
restaurants and hotels. Anyhow, I reached Trekkers’ home by around 2:45 p.m.
local time and got freshened up. The room was strictly basic and nothing more.
I, however, needed exactly that and hence wasn’t unimpressed. Roaming around
the quintessential tourist region of Thamel was partly for buying a few
essentials (Local SIM, Torch etc.) and partly just to catch a glimpse of this
country through this small window on my very first day in it. Through a few
discussions, I gathered that Yangling restaurant is where you get good Tibetan
food and I naturally found my way there and munched on some delicious momos. I
ended up going there again during my stay in Nepal so you can safely conclude
about the tastiness of the food. I returned to my hotel after eating and buying
the stuff I needed.
The hotel
manager was a jovial and leisurely gentleman called Dhana who happened to be
willing to help me regarding anything and everything and that too in a totally
candid manner. I was pretty impressed and ended up doing the tourist bus
booking through him. Sipping a couple of cans of beer and enjoying the pleasant
evening of Kathmandu, I went to sleep by around 11 p.m.
Morning was
early as I had to catch the 7 o’clock bus from the Tourist bus station. It was
a 15-20 min walk with my entire luggage. Upon reaching the bus station, I was
first introduced to the cross cultural and multi lingual congregation which
would be my companion for the rest of the trip. I had started loving it
already. The bus ride was comfortable although the condition of the roads isn’t
particularly good. May be, the pure joy of being so close to nature lessened
the impact of the blows to my buttocks. It was drizzling almost halfway through
the distance to Pokhara. Post 11 o’clock, however, it cleared up a bit and by
the time I reached Pokhara at 2, it was bright sunshine.
I was welcomed
by Harry, another jovial Nepali who’s the owner of Harvest Moon Guest House. He
had come to pick me up. Upon reaching the hotel, I freshened up and went to
lakeside, the most popular destination in Pokhara where everybody enjoys hanging
out. It wasn’t raining, which helped me roam about freely and browse through a
lot of shops and check out the places without any hassles. The Fewa Lake is
simply beautiful and just walking along the bank soothes your mind. It gave me
a hint of the solitude I had been seeking. By the time I finished lunch &
shopping and when I was in the last shop for buying a 1:50,000 map of the
Annapurna Base Camp Trek, the heavens opened wide. The rains were so heavy that
any hope of walking through it to the hotel was in vain. “How long can it go on?” I thought to myself, considering it was
already the 2nd half of September. I was so, so wrong as I had to
wait in the shop as the incessant rains continued. I cursed myself for not
having carried the raincoat. Then I realized that at 3:30 p.m., when I had come
out, there was no reason to carry one as it was sunny and I was, in fact,
wearing my hat. After waiting for 45 mins in the same shop and seeing that the
rain had slightly got lighter, I wrapped all my stuff in double plastic bags
and decided to dart to the hotel. Little did I know that I was going to have a
fall I would definitely remember for the better part of my life. While trying
to get on to the footpath, wading through a stream of water, I placed my foot
into an invisible pit and fell on my bums, dropping all that I was carrying. Getting
up in an instant and thankfully unhurt, I quickly jumped to a safe spot. All my
bags, my jeans and some part of my t-shirt wet, I began cursing myself for the
incident but simultaneously checking the safety of the camera, the phone, the
passport and other stuff. Calming myself, I hurried to the hotel where I could
check all the stuff and dry them if need be. Thankfully because of the double
plastic bags, the camera was intact. The phone, although working fine, was not
vibrating and there was a small bluish coloration in the lower right part of
the screen. I was worried that the whole trek would be jeopardized if the phone
stops working, as it’s risky to go without any medium to connect, just in case
something untoward happens. Harry and his family were very helpful and gave me
raw rice which I had asked for; so that I could immerse my phone in it so as to
rid it of any moisture. After 40 minutes, I removed my phone and was delighted
to find it return to normalcy. Other wet stuff including passport, currency
etc. had to be dried and it consumed the better part of the remaining evening.
I had my dinner at the guest house itself and went to sleep. One of the other
matters of worry was that I still hadn’t got my permits. Figuring that I would
get it in Pokhara, I was relaxed. By the time I got to know that Saturday is a
holiday in Nepal, it was already 6 p.m. and I was in Kathmandu. This meant
that, instead of heading out for the trek, I was going to have to get the
permits first. God, please don’t put any more hurdles…
Part 2: THE TREK
DAY 1
I woke up early
and left after breakfast, by around 0900 hrs as it takes around 20 minutes to
walk from the guest house to the Nepal Tourism Board office. Thankfully, I was
among the 1st tourists applying for the permit that day. After
taking those, I headed out, trying to see how I can reach Nayapul, my starting
point for the trek. I realized that I had to reach the Bus Park by a minivan,
carrying my 12kg backpack, my sleeping bag, trekking pole and the camera. It
was an experience. Having made to the bus park and having bought the tickets, I
waited for the bus. The bus (or something like it) was so awesome that I lost
half my energy getting to Nayapul, having already lost half the day, too.
I finally
started my trek at 1:15 p.m., way later than I had planned. There was a group
of 3 Turkish boys (Tarik, Faik and Taigun were their names which I learned
later) that started around the same time. They were accompanied by 2 guides cum
porters (Amish and Ajay). I, carrying all my stuff, found myself as a bit of an
odd man out as I met many other groups, all of them accompanied by either a
porter or a guide or both. I was, however, determined to complete this trek all
by myself and set out positively. Birethanti was the 1st checkpoint
after 45 minutes where I displayed my permits and got them stamped. These
checkpoints are important in tracking the whereabouts in case someone goes
missing. A local lady accompanied me for almost an hour and a half, may be
hoping that I would need a porter after I realise how difficult it’s going to
be. Much to her disappointment, I trudged along without complaining. The
Turkish boys, a group of Japanese people and also a group from China were my
fellow travelers who were leading/following me on the same trail from time to
time, depending on where we took breaks. I took a break at 3:09 p.m. at Ramghai
where I had a Noodle Soup and a Red bull (Energy Drink). I felt so refreshed,
especially because I hadn’t had lunch. Zero preparation for the trek was going
to hurt me obviously. Nevertheless, sheer will power was driving me and I made
it to Tikhedunga by 5:20 p.m. My intended stop for the 1st day was
Ulleri which was the next town after Tikhedunga. However, it was already late
and Ulleri was some 3500 stone steps up from Tikhedunga. There was no question
of going further. “Tikhedunga, teri kehke loonga” I whispered to myself and
settled in the same guest house as the Turkish boys. By now, I had been on
quite friendly terms with them and they too seemed very friendly and welcomed
me into their talks. We all took hot shower and settled in the courtyard,
chatting and discussing on various topics. The guide was pretty tolerant of me
mixing with his group too, which isn’t always the case. The guest house room
was minimalistic but that’s how it is supposed to be. I knew that I was on a
trek and not on some leisure holiday. It was perfect. We chatted, had dinner
and slept by around 10.
DAY 2
Mornings are so
pleasant and fresh in the forest. I woke up at 6, getting ready for breakfast
by 0630 hrs. I had packed my bag. Rather, I had hardly unpacked. I took some
good snapshots in the early morning. We all decided to leave together and it
was 0830 hrs by the time we had breakfast and left. The climb to Ulleri is one
of the most testing for your knees, especially when you’re carrying around 13-14kgs
on your back. I made it to Ulleri by 10:35 a.m. I took a short break, had some
coffee and moved on. Slowly, I was realizing that the strategy that I’m going
to have to adopt has to be different and I had started to implement it as well.
I started to walk slowly, steady and with minimum stops while most others were
going faster but taking longer and more frequent stops. Am I starting to learn a
bit more about myself? May be, maybe not. Whatever may be the case, I was
talking to myself a lot, reflecting. Lunch break was at Ban Thanti at 1220 hrs.
The lunch came so late after ordering that I was beginning to worry whether I
would make it to Ghorepani (especially after starting behind today, from
Tikhedunga instead of Ulleri). Nevertheless, I informed the Turkish friends
that I would start off early, lest I lag back. The walk from here on was a
lonely one. I slowly developed a breathing pattern and perfected it which
allowed me to walk for longer distances without taking actual breaks. I focused
on the breathing cycle and started adjusting it so that just before running out
of breath, I would just slow down enough to catch my breath and get a move on.
This newly devised pattern would later come in handy for me throughout the trek
and make me survive through. Anyhow, I reached the penultimate town of Nange Thanti
by around 3:26 p.m. I didn’t need to halt for longer, however, and paced myself
and made it to Ghorepani by 5 p.m. I felt satisfied, having made up for the
lost time and making it to the destination from where I would go to Poon Hill
the next day. Ghorepani was another checkpoint where I registered myself and
checked myself into one of the guest houses. It was the same that my Turkish
friends were going to stay in. It was much colder and foggy. The dining area
had a central heater which had a chimney going up. Everybody had kept their
clothes by the heater for drying. My clothes were drenched in sweat, too, and I
too followed suit. I ordered hot chicken soup and relished sipping onto it,
sitting by the fireplace. All these guest houses have a pre-administered and
designated menu with fixed prices, to avoid conflict of interests for both the
parties. Dinner was a Cheese Macaroni which was quite filling. We all slept
early, by around 8, as we had to wake up by 0430 hrs the next day.
DAY 3
Early mornings
are not really my favorites as I’m more of a night person. This was however
different. I didn’t want to miss the view of all the snowy mountains at
sunrise. I didn’t come all the way till here to be lazy. Starting off at 5 a.m.
in the chilly weather with gloves on, I made it to the top of Poon Hill by 6.
Wet with sweat in the cold weather is something I was getting used to by now.
The Masala tea at Poon Hill tasted better than any morning tea I had ever
tasted. Although initially quite overcast, the view gradually cleared up and we
got a splendid view of the mountains! Dhawalgiri (Dhaulagiri), Hiunchuli,
Gangapurna, Annapurna & the famous Machhapuchhare are the range of
mountains that you see in the panorama, spanning over 2100 of your
field of view. It’s an amazing experience, to say the least and I can’t
describe the grandeur in words. You must go there to experience it. It’s worth the
entire walk, all the pain in the knees, all the sweating. For many of the
tourists on the Poon Hill, this was the highest point as Poon Hill trek is also
one of the very famous short treks in the Annapurna region. I was told by
Amish, however, that I would get much better view from ABC. My motivation level
went way higher hearing this and I thanked myself for the decision to go for
the ABC trek. I tried to capture all the beauty with my eyes rather than the
lens. All the same, I couldn’t resist taking some cool pics… I started on my
way back to Ghorepani as there was a long way to go even after the breakfast.
Quickly
through the breakfast, I started off at 9 a.m. An hour and 15 minutes later,
after climbing continuously, I reached Deurali, only to realize that it’s just
the start of Deurali. By this time, my knees were paining immensely. Fellow
trekkers were passing concerned glances at me, some even asking if I am OK. I,
however, replied positively and that’s what I was, from within. Especially
looking at the luggage I was carrying, people were skeptical of whether I would
make it. Especially after I told them that I’m heading to ABC, many raised
their eyebrows and showed varied expressions. I was so determined that I knew I
was going to make it, come what may. After 45 more minutes, when I made it to
actual Deurali, I became more confident. Although I was slower, with my strategy
of steady pace and short stoppages, I was ahead of many groups. I also got a
compliment from a polish girl that I was “Very Inspiring”. Little did I know
that this polish girl and her husband would later become my buddies who would
chat, discuss and have lot of fun with me. Such comments were obviously
inspiring for me, too! I halted for a bit and began walking, keeping the aim of
making to Banthanti by 1-2. Journey to Banthanti was painful nonetheless. There
was a continuous downhill route with deep stone steps. It also started
drizzling a bit. I met a couple from Scotland; the guy originally from Scotland
and the girl originally from Nepal, now settled in Scotland. They were going at
a steady pace, too. I reached Ban Thanti at 1:30 p.m., only minutes after they
did. We had lunch together and exchanged experiences. It’s so much fun that you
get to meet people from all corners of the world and they’re all so open and
jovial that you love the company and the little chats, too. It started raining
heavily just as we were having lunch. We thanked the heavens as we were safe,
not having to get drenched. I, however, left minutes after finishing my lunch,
knowing well the pace which I was going to go at. The path from Ban Thanti to
Tadapani, is a long, long one and particularly tiring, especially for your
lower back, having to climb and descend intermittently. I took a break at one
of the small houses for water and also to have some snack to gain energy. In
the mountains, while trekking, the lunch gets digested so fast that you start
feeling light almost within an hour and a half. I met a couple, the guy from
Netherlands (Never call it Holland, as Holland is just a part of Netherlands)
and the girl from Arizona, USA. They were energetic and jovial. Another Turkish
girl came, who was among the very few like me; who were doing it all alone,
without any guide or a porter. We joked together, clicked a few photos and
shared a few snacks. I would never forget such moments that I’ve had while
trekking. This was an entirely and refreshingly new experience for me and I was
enjoying it. All the same, I left them before their break got over and started
my ascent. There was a Spanish troop of around 14 people which was pretty
conspicuous because of their sheer size. They were pretty fast and focused.
Their breaks usually lasted longer however, and hence they were still behind
me, surprisingly. Just as I was about to finish the day, they passed me. I was
damn tired, having walked for over 9 hours in the day. By the time I reached
Tadapani, I was exhausted, but the sight of the destination revived my spirits.
The
guest house that we stayed in was neat and tidy and the promise of a hot shower
was worth the entire walk. The polish couple and the Dutch-American couple were
in the same hotel, too. The Turkish boys, however, were nowhere to be seen.
After getting a refreshingly hot shower, I washed a few of my clothes. In
Himalayan treks, you need to wash most of your clothes and dry them the same
day too. The key is to travel as light as possible. The same drill, the same
kind of heater in the dining hall and same crowded space for drying your
clothes; but I was used to it by now. I was carrying a few small bottles of
whiskey, to help me keep warm and light after such long walks. Nine and a half
hours of walk on the same day was something I had done (maybe) for the first
time in my life. Knees were paining, ankles were aching but I was happy and
enjoying. Enjoying the drink, I chatted with the polish couple about their
experiences in different countries. Michal and Monika were not the names
I had expected, to be honest. Too simple, right? Anyway, we discussed on varied
topics. She seemed particularly interested in knowing about India, its culture,
food and also places worth visiting. We chatted for almost 2 hours. They were
unsure whether they would do ABC or not. I did my best to motivate them. With
dinner finished by 8, we all went to sleep.
DAY 4:
Morning was
chilly, and it greeted me with a fantastic view of the snowy mountains. I
immediately took my camera out and took some really good snaps during different
moments of the sunrise, with light conditions changing within a matter of
seconds. My most common choice of breakfast was a Double Masala omelette with
butter and toast. I didn’t find anything else as filling and wholesome. I did
try Muesli with fruits here, but didn’t quite enjoy it. Omelette and toast it
was going to be, from here on. Although I was contemplating the earlier day
whether I should stay at Tadapani or go further to Chuile, I was happy about my
decision today. It would’ve been too late and lonely.
I
left early, at 0730 hrs, and started my trek for the day. Today’s path was full
of ups and downs. Today I also bid goodbye to the Poon hill trekkers as they
would go back down while the ABC trekkers go further up. Making it to Chuile by
8:30, I was happy about my decision of starting early. However chilly it may
be, once you start trekking, you simply sweat like you’re in Mumbai. The path
was all the way down until now. From Chuile, I could see the next town of
Ghurnung and felt it to be very close by. The walk took almost 2 hours,
however. One of the most important facts of trekking in the Annapurna range is
that, however picturesque and refreshing the kholas (streams and rivers) may
seem, they are the worst enemies that your knees can have… All the way down and
then all the way up again… How would I have known that this was just the
beginning? The journey from Ghurnung to Chhomrong took around 3 hours. The
incremental pressure on my knees was getting beyond my tolerable limits now. By
the time I reached Chhomrong, alone this time as I had maintained the lead, I
was barely able to stand. I checked into one of the 1st guest houses
I could see. The Panorama guest house had a fantastic panoramic view,
nonetheless. I had to sit down for about 15 minutes before I could stand again.
I was one of the only guests there. I gathered that it also houses 2 other
Indian guests who had had a tragic incident apparently. After taking a hot
shower, I took my 2nd bottle out and started enjoying it sip by sip.
It was really refreshing to have it in the cold climate and especially after a
hard day’s work. I met the Indian guys in the dining room. They were Kunal and
Gaurav, from Delhi. Apparently, Kunal had twisted his knee badly while going to
Sinuwa. They obviously had to return and were planning to head back to Pokhara
the next day. I felt very sorry about them as they had to abandon their trek
because of an injury. It would have been fun to walk with some of the fellow
countrymen. Alas, that was not to be the case… We had a good chat, though, and
exchanged numbers and wished the best to each other. While talking to them, I
could see Michal and Monica walk on the steps leading to Chhomrong. I
burst out calling their name and waving my hand to them, glad to see my fellow
travelers. They discussed among themselves for a minute and then decided to
stay at Panorama after seeing that it was a descent one. I chatted with them
for about half an hour and then went to sleep. After sleeping for a couple of
hours, I woke up fresh. The pain in the knees and ankles also came to a
bearable level. With dinner over by 8-8:30 p.m., we all went to sleep by 9.
DAY 5:
I had kept the
wet clothes and my hat to dry near the fireplace in the kitchen. After waking
up, I collected the dried clothes and packed. I had taken a wise choice of
leaving some of my belongings at Chhomrong which would slightly make my trek
easier. All I could manage was about 2 kg of stuff. Nevertheless, it was going
to help. The way back passes through Chhomrong when I would collect the same.
Breakfast and packing/unpacking was over by 7 a.m. Michal and Monica
were still undecided about whether they wanted to continue to ABC or not. While
departing, I spoke to them and tried to convince them that they would be able
to manage, even if it takes a day longer. They said they were still unsure so I
bid them goodbye, in case they decide not to. Leaving at 7:15 a.m., I alighted
all the 1500 odd stares from Chhomrong to the Chhomrong khola, only to see a
flight of some 1800 odd stairs ahead of me. I was used to it by now. Making my
way up those stairs, I saw some guest houses. I was so happy to see that I made
it to Sinuwa in an hour (it was 8:22 a.m.). Alas, the joy was short lived as I
came to know that it was Lower Sinuwa and the Upper or Proper Sinuwa is still
some way up. That “some way” happened to be an hour and a half for me; with all
my joy being replaced by sweat. Taking a short break at Sinuwa, I marched
ahead. The next stop was Bamboo, and some people told me that it’s
comparatively an easy way to Bamboo. Motivated and determined to cover the
distance as fast as possible, I left Sinuwa, only to realize that the way to
Bamboo is an inverted version of the patch I had just completed. I had to climb
all the way up, to see a dauntingly long flight of stairs ahead of me which I
had to alight. My will was almost on the verge of breaking, much like my knees.
Some porters and guides were passing by with a few tourists, looking at the
sorry state of my knees and giving various meaningful glances. Most of them if
verbalized would have meant, “How does he think he’d be able to make it to
ABC?” I saw those but ignored, continuously motivating myself with patience and
positive self-talks. I started alighting and I met Tulay (the Turkish girl) who
came from behind. She had left half an hour after I had. She wasn’t in any better
state either, just that her speed while alighting was still better than mine. I
felt so miserable, about both of us, being helpless and moving at a snail’s
pace. I discarded the thought while chanting “Ganpati Bappa Morya” and “Jai
Bajarang Bali”. The endless steps were ahead of me. I saw even some porters
who were waiting midway to take rest. I started off deciding not to stop in
between, however slow I may proceed. It was an arduous task, which I managed to
finish somehow. When I reached Bamboo, I was half dead. I saw Tulay having
lunch. It was 12:48 p.m.
I
decided to have food and ordered Steamed Veg. momos. From Sinuwa onwards,
Chicken and Meat are not allowed for religious reasons. Quickly finishing the
lunch, I left immediately as I wanted to make it to Himalaya, my target for
today. I still had to cross Dovan which was an estimated 1.5 hours. This meant
at least 2 hours for me. Himalaya is still 2 hours further, which means 2.5
hours more. It was already 1:20 p.m. This meant that it would be at least 5:45
by the time I make it to Himalaya even if I take no breaks. Thoughts were
clouding my mind. I brushed them aside with a lot of effort and started moving
on. I was spirited and covering distance at a fast pace. Much to my advantage,
the road was a steady incline which funnily was a boon for me. I was thinking
about how subjective situations are. Any other time, an incline would’ve meant
a tougher task. Under the circumstances, however, it was my favourite. I paced
myself through the curves and the climb. There was virtually no one that had
passed ahead. I was silently happy but simultaneously telling myself not to be
overconfident. Walking at steady pace and without any stop, I made it to Dovan
in an hour and 20 minutes. I couldn’t believe it myself. Tulay who had left
about half an hour before me had just reached. She was surprised as well.
Smiling and hugging each other, we enjoyed the happy moment over a cup of tea.
I, as always, took a break of just 15 minutes as I knew there was still a more
difficult patch ahead. To further worsen the things, Himalaya has just 2 guest
houses which meant uncertainty about whether we would get a place or not. Tulay
decided to take a leisurely break and told me to go ahead. Wishing her the
best, I moved along.
The
path was a similar one but steeper and more rugged. I was also advised by a few
locals to take it easy from here onwards as the air slowly starts to get
thinner. Almost a lonely walk like the earlier one, I was motivating myself
with the chants and positive self talks. It was just over an hour when I
started feeling tired. It started raining as well. Rain means an additional
expenditure of energy in quickly covering the bag and yourself as you can’t
afford either of it getting wet. Doing the drill gave me a break (kind of) and
I moved along. Almost invariably in the mountains, as soon as you put on the
rain covers, it stops raining. Although it’s high up and pretty cool and
breezy, you start sweating immediately. On top of that, I sweat excessively,
much more than a common person would do. This meant removing the rain coat
again. Frustratingly doing the needful, I marched ahead. When I could see
glimpses of the destination, I couldn’t hide my joy. I started moving even
faster and eventually made it to Himalaya at 4:51 p.m. sharp. Delighted about
having reached well ahead of what I had thought, I darted towards the dining
hall where I would find the manager, in order to secure a room for myself. My
joy was immediately replaced by shock when the manager plainly told me that all
the rooms were already full although I could hardly see people. I realized
later that people have called ahead and booked rooms for themselves. Another disadvantage
of going all alone, I reflected. Nevertheless, I ran to the other guest house,
hoping he would have a room for me. I got the same response. Grudgingly, I
decided to move along, hoping to reach Deurali in time. I had covered the
distance between Bamboo and Himalaya in 3.5 hours, an hour faster than I had
expected, beating even their estimates by around 10-15 minutes. However, here I
was, frustrated, instead of celebrating the success. Just when I was about to
start off, I got to know that there’s dormitory available. Seeing a ray of
hope, I turned around to check the condition of the dormitory. It was a large
room with 6 beds and no tables. The locals suggested that I stay here, whatever
may be the situation, as it would get dark before I make it to Deurali and it’s
risky as I would be all alone. I took a call of staying there as the dormitory
was completely empty. Keeping the luggage there, I relaxed. Tulay came after
some time and I greeted her. After she caught her breath, I told her the good
news. She was aghast. I then showed her the only option available and after
some consideration, she took the decision of staying there, too. It wasn’t a
bad deal, after all. The room was much bigger than any normal room and it was
only 2 of us. No one came afterwards. A hot shower was available but I didn’t
opt for it as it was pretty chilly and I didn’t feel I needed one. I was hoping
that may be Michal and Monica would turn up, however late. I quit hoping
after it was 6 o’clock. Dinner was hot and yummy. I feel Cheese Macaroni is the
best choice among what’s available. I was reflecting about today’s journey
before going to bed. It was a long day, nine and a half hours long. I couldn’t
believe myself. How did I manage to move so fast, after my knees had long given
up? The answer lied within. I had a very strong will and was hell bent on making
it to Himalaya. It was the sheer resolve that had made me walk for that long
and through that terrain. A smile came to my face, reassuring me that I would
make it to ABC the next day. I went to sleep, enjoying the success of the day.
DAY 6:
I woke up at
0530 hrs, fresh from a good night’s sleep. Having a filling breakfast and hot
coffee, I prepared myself for the finale. Today was the ultimate climb. I was
happy that there weren’t going to be any stone steps that I would need to descend.
A simple condition for happiness. Motivated, I started off at 7. The air was
getting thinner and I could feel it. More effort was required for completing
the breathing cycles. I decided not to strain myself lest I get altitude
sickness. I reached Deurali at 8:28 a.m., well in time. I realized that I was
moving at a decent speed, provided there aren’t too many stairs to descend.
Still pretty full and feeling fresh, I resumed my walk after taking a small
break. The climb started getting a bit steeper and it had started to get
cloudy, too. The walk to MBC (Machhapuchhare Base Camp) was a tiring one and
made harder by the slowly decreasing concentration of Oxygen. There were hardly
any person who passed me from behind, save for a few porters carrying supplies.
The scenes I was getting to see were heavenly, making me stop and take it all
in. I couldn’t take photos at all the spots, thanks to the rains. However, the
imprints on my mind of the photographs taken by my eyes would be there forever.
It was yet another lonely walk. It was only the 4 people from the USA whom I
met during my path. They were fast, carrying light luggage on themselves as
they had a porter, but they were taking slightly longer breaks. I didn’t see
them after I passed them somewhere between Deurali and MBC. I made it there at
10:53 a.m.
I
had a cup of hot coffee at MBC where I met a couple of guys from Israel. It was
a brother-sister duo in their late 40s. They told me that they had started from
Deurali today and resting as they felt the thinner nature of the air. I wished
them the best and moved out of the room. I discovered not after 50 steps that
it had started raining. I returned to the same spot to cover my bag and myself.
The weather was already chilly and foggy. I was loving it. I started finally at
11:20 a.m. It was so foggy that I couldn’t see beyond 100 yards. The path was
literally a sheep trail with hundreds of sheep grazing along the same path. I
passed them all and kept walking with a rhythmic pattern of breathing. I was
mentally so strong and motivated that I wasn’t stopping for even a second. The
rest was in the form of catching breath in the flatter patches between the
steep climbs. It was a steady incline along the mountains with no signs of life
except a few cute rodents and occasional birds. I trudged along relentlessly,
promising myself not to stop before the destination. The journey seemed endless
with not a single soul passing from either side. I was in clouds and it was a
splendid sight to my eyes, anywhere I saw. There were a few porters who passed
me almost an hour after I started. I confirmed with them whether I was on the
right track, delighted to have seen someone after a long time. They nodded
while passing by silently. My spirits rose and I felt elated. After walking for
around 20-25 more minutes, I could see a signboard of some sort, not clearly
visible due to the clouds. I sped towards it at double the speed. I sometimes
wonder where we get the energy from, when we had been trying to get it all the
while. I could see that it was indeed the board that welcomed all the guests,
Nepalese and foreign, to the Annapurna Base Camp.
I could see the base camp with the guest
houses up ahead and I was ecstatic! I didn’t want to stop now. I almost ran to
the camp. I saw, it was exactly 1 p.m. This was it!!! I had made it!!! I was
finally at the Annapurna Base Camp!!! It is impossible to capture the emotions
in words. I wasn’t greeted by anyone as I seemed to be the 1st one.
I couldn’t believe! I, who was all alone, carrying his entire luggage himself,
was the 1st to reach the destination? I went and searched for anyone
I had met earlier. All new faces, most of whom had stayed at either Deurali or
MBC the earlier night. I was proud of myself for having achieved this feat,
being the 1st one to have reached ABC among those who started from Himalaya.
I also almost immediately felt humbled by the sheer enormity of the mountains
around. It was just showing me how minute I was, as compared to the vastness of
the universe. I believe you tend to get a bit philosophical when you’re at high
altitudes… I started getting spiritual thoughts and I just sat on a bench,
taking in the view and reflecting on my thoughts.
After
some time, I checked in to a room. I had to share my room with a German lad who
had already checked in. I unpacked and applied the pain relieving roll-on onto
my knees and ankle. I felt the pain when I reached. Along the way, I had been
ignoring it due to the motivation and the will. In the near freezing
temperatures, I started feeling the pain a little. It didn’t hurt too much,
however, as I was delighted to have made it to ABC. I took out the last bottle
which I had preserved for the base camp. I mixed it in the water from the
bottle and took it with me to a place from where I could see the oncoming
trekkers. Enjoying the drink sip by sip, I was relaxing myself, absorbing the
view of the grand mountain range surrounding the base camp. It was heavenly. I
may never leave this place!!!
I chatted with
a couple from England and a guy, originally from India, now settled in
Australia. They found it interesting that I came all alone, without any
friends, family, porter or guide. It was around 2:45 p.m. when I saw someone
coming our way. I soon found out that it was the couple from Netherlands. They
walked in the dining room to find me sitting there, chatting. I saw an
expression of surprise on their faces, soon replaced by a smile. They were
surprised to see me having made it there so early. They immediately asked me
when I had reached and I told them that I had reached at 1. We congratulated each
other and hugged, sharing the joy of having achieved the goal. Following that,
by around 3:30 p.m., I saw the Dutch-American duo making their way up. I waved
and shouted, clicking their pics from a distance. They waved in joy and posed
for the lens. They were followed by Bishnu, their porter cum guide who had come
to ABC for the 1st time as well. All of them seemed exhausted to the
core. We greeted each other and hugged to wish each other. I was telling them
about my experience and about the view when we also spotted Tulay. We waved to
her, too, and she waved back. We made a huddle when she reached and celebrated the
achievement.
I
told them to freshen up. After about half an hour, we all met in the dining
room. They were staying at a different guest house and I had already finished
my lunch so we sat in their dining room, chatting. I met a group from Denmark
with one girl from Norway. They were all physiotherapists and one of the Danish
girls came to examine my ankle as Anna had told her about the pain I had. After
a couple of minutes, she said that it was normal and that it would
automatically get better once I give it some rest. The others had their lunch
while she and I chatted. It was so awesome to meet so many new people, that too
from so many diverse geographical and cultural backgrounds. It was a nice chat.
Later we all sat in a circle and chatted a lot about various countries
including India, Nepal, Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, Italy and the USA. All
countries had one or more representatives. I called it the Global Summit. We
had a lot of fun. It was raining outside, continuously since 5. There wasn’t
anything else to be done. By around 7:30 p.m., we split, I having to leave for
dinner in my guest house. I had dinner, chatting with yet another group of
people; Spanish, Hebrew and French. I was having a good time. Post dinner, I
retired to my room, where I finally spoke to my German roommate. He had come
alone as well, although he had a guide and a porter. We chatted for some time, before
going to bed. I used all the warm clothes that I had brought. I was wearing a
T-shirt, covered by a jacket, followed by the fleece jacket. I had engulfed
myself in the sleeping bag which was in turn inside a thick blanket. I was
completely covered. Feeling the joy of being at the topmost point of my
expedition, I went to sleep. I woke up at around 1:30 a.m. when I went to the
washroom. It had stopped raining and had cleared up a bit. I took a stroll
around, enjoying the night-time view of the snowy mountains. It was lovely. It
was freezing cold, the mercury dropping to around 20 C. I returned
to my room after 10-15 minutes and went back to sleep.
DAY 7:
It was one of
the most pleasant mornings. It was 5:30 a.m. when I woke up to a chilly
morning. Coming out eagerly to see whether it has cleared or not, I went up to
the skies. To my delight, not only was it not raining, but it was pretty clear
as well. I thanked god for letting us have the breathtaking view. Quickly
running through the morning rituals, I came out with the camera, eager to
capture all the beauty as much with my camera lens as I was with the 2 lenses
of my eyes. Every direction that I could see, there were snowy mountains. The
sun hadn’t risen fully so it was still dark somewhere. The sight of snow
shining in the morning light is beyond words! I turned to the back of the camp
where almost everyone was gathering. There was a small plateau on which you
could climb and get the breathtaking view of the Annapurna range and also of
the glacier in the valley. I could hardly believe it to be a glacier as the
snow was hidden behind a substantially thick cover of dirt. There are a few
memorials of the unfortunate climbers/trekkers who lost their lives in
calamities such as blizzards. We paid homage to them and also prayed for the
safety of anybody and everybody that comes here. We clicked a lot of photos,
the partners in climb!!! It was a lot of fun to stand at the highest point of
the trek and gaze at the 10th highest mountain peak in the world
(Annapurna I, at 8091m). We ourselves were at 4130m (13750 feet) and that’s a
lot, too! We chatted and enjoyed to our heart’s content and clicked numerous
photos of the peaks and of each other.
Finally
by around 7:45, I thought of winding up as I still had the herculean task of
making it back to Pokhara in just 2 days! I had already had breakfast at 6:30
so I got ready quickly and started my journey at 8. While going back, it was
all going to be downhill and so I was worried once again as my knees had still
not recovered. Thankfully, I was able to manage (almost) running through the
slopes as my legs were still fresh. I decided not to stop at all during the descent
as it was hardly tiring as compared to the climb. After a few minutes, I saw a
couple coming my way from the opposite side. I looked closely and shouted in
joy! It was Michal and Monica!!! I was speechless for a second as I had
thought that they must have abandoned the thought. I hugged them tight and
congratulated them for making the right decision. They said they had halted at
Dovan and MBC the earlier nights. Wishing each other the best, we bid goodbye.
Pacing through, I made it to MBC in just an hour. I didn’t take a break there
and proceeded further.
It
was 10:27 when I reached Deurali. The ability to run was long gone, now
replaced with a slow, painful walk down any stone steps. I was worried about my
knees and prayed that they last at least till I make it to the motorable road. There
is no other way than a mule or a helicopter, in case you’re unable to walk. Taking
a quick tea break, I proceeded to Himalaya. I was walking steadily without
breaks; as although in pain, I was hardly tired. During my journey since
morning, I had met a couple of Maharashtrian guys who were part of a large
group. Upon chatting while passing them, I got to know that they’re from Thane
(my hometown) and in fact stay pretty close to my place. I would’ve loved to
spend more time chatting and exchanging numbers but couldn’t as I was pressed
for time and didn’t want any breaks. It was nice to see someone from India,
though. They were planning to reach ABC that day. I wished them the best and
walked along. I made it to Himalaya at 12:30 p.m.
My
target for the day was Chhomrong which meant that I still had more than halfway
to go. Brushing aside the speculations, I marched further. The downhill journey
was getting increasingly difficult. However, I was happy as I was entering the
same patch which I had covered pretty fast while climbing up. It was a
different case while doing down, though. The speed declined as I was finding it
hard to descend any stairs. It took me an hour and a half to reach Dovan and
another one and a half hour to reach Bamboo, with only one 10-minute break in
between. Just before I reached Bamboo, Remco passed me. He said that they were
going to stay at Bamboo. It was 3:45 p.m. and my legs were beyond pain. I was
reflecting as to what I should be doing. The journey to Sinuwa was a strenuous
one. I would’ve had to climb those same innumerable steps first and then
proceed to go down to Sinuwa again. It would be dark by the time I would reach
as it was already 4. I had taken 2 and a half hours coming up. It gets
completely dark by around 6:15 in the region. It was a bit risky. I decided,
however, that I HAVE to proceed if I wanted to make it to Pokhara the next day.
Praying to god, I started off.
I
was so motivated for some reason, that I finished climbing those ominous
looking stairs within no time. I was glad that the difficult part was over. I
noticed, though, that the entire path was hauntingly lonely. Not a soul going
either way. I realized that even the locals didn’t continue to walk that late.
I reaffirmed to myself that I would be safe as I knew there wasn’t any risk of
getting lost. The darkness was the only threat. Chanting and motivating myself,
I continued along, without stopping for a second in the entire journey. I
finally passed a porter who was carrying something in a basket, going the
opposite way. Here was the 1st guy after more than an hour. I
imagined how starkly different it was out there, as compared to the bustling
city life that I hail from. Moving along relentlessly, I reached Sinuwa at 5:41
p.m. I couldn’t believe myself. I had covered the distance in just 1 hour and
40 minutes. Relived, though, I waved to the couple from Netherlands who were
astonished once again; to see me make it there. I got to know that the shower
there was amazing. I dropped my luggage, went to the bathroom and oh boy, the
shower was definitely one of the best. It was an LPG powered heater and the
water was super hot. After about half an hour, I finally came out, refreshed.
After going through my regular prayers after bath, I stepped into the dining
hall. I was greeted by the people, many of whom I had met on my way up. There
were also some who were going to ABC and had halted there. It was time to make
new friends again. An Australian had been doing the entire Annapurna Circuit
and was about to leave for ABC the next day. We chatted for a long time over
dinner and shared many pictures. He showed me some amazing clicks with the snowy
mountains and lakes and other natural beauty that he had experienced. I finally
retired to my room by around 9 p.m.
DAY 8:
I woke up at
5:30 a.m. and started preparing for the Soorya
Poojan (Prayer to the sun) as I had been following the ritual every Sunday morning.
I also managed to venture around and gather white flowers which I needed for
the Pooja. It was pretty and chilly
out there. Having completed the Pooja, I came out for breakfast and I saw an
amazing view. It was crystal clear in the skies with not a single cloud and I
could see 2 beautiful peaks, right in front (Annapurna South and the beautiful
Machhapuchhare). I envied the people who would be at ABC, enjoying such a clear
view. I took many snapshots of the beautiful morning view and started preparing
for the ultimate run.
‘Today’s
going to be damn tough’, I thought to myself, as I visualized going through the
valley to make it to Chhomrong. I would have to 1st collect the
stuff I had dropped there and then get a move on. The way further was totally
unknown, making it difficult to estimate the time required. Stopping my chain
of thoughts, I did what I had been doing for a week now; tightened the straps
of the bag and got going. It was an immensely tiring and painful walk down
those grueling stairs followed by a steep climb. I registered myself again at
the same post where I had been earlier, getting a silent satisfaction in my
mind of ‘Been there and done that’. It was 9:34 a.m. (two and a half hours
past) when I reached Panorama Guest house at Chhomrong. I was happy with myself
as many would start their day by this time when I had already made it to
Chhomrong. I was greeted by Sam Gurung,
the caretaker and he returned my luggage. I had hot and refreshing coffee there
and also enquired about the way ahead. He told me that his father had left for
Pokhara in the morning itself. However, it had been over an hour and it wasn’t
possible to catch up.
Nevertheless,
I felt relieved when he said it would take me around 4-5 hours to reach Siwai,
a place from where I could get a bus to Pokhara. The bus, he said, leaves at
3:15 p.m. which meant I had more than 5 hours to make it there. He also said
that barring a few patches, the trail is comparatively flat. Fresh and
rejuvenated, I left at 10. It was the same old story all over again. This time,
the motivation had also declined as I had already completed the trek. It was
more of finishing the task. I believe this was one of my mistakes. My morale
was decreasing fast and I was finding it difficult to keep myself up. I had reached
Jhinu by 11:18 a.m. when I decided to take a break and talk to myself. I
convinced myself not to crib as all would be in vain if I give up now. I HAD to
finish it with a smile to be happy with myself. I HAD to make it to Pokhara,
even if it meant my knees break down or ankles give up. Getting all my thoughts
together and pulling myself together, I got up, deciding to myself that I
wouldn’t stop till I make it to Siwai. I didn’t have any food; only a Red Bull.
It was a big mistake, as I realized later.
I
met an ex-army official who told me that it was just a matter of 2-3 hours to
Siwai and that after a small patch, it was all flat. I pushed myself further,
only to find long stretches of stone steps, some down and then some up. I took
a break at 12:15 at some tiny settlement with just 2 houses. The way further
was an estimated 2 hour walk. I was happy as I was aiming for a bus at 3:15
p.m. This was when my final test was just about to start. The way further
started narrowing and the path getting lonelier. I met only a few travelers
and/or porters. The day was 8th, the energy levels were low, the
path was unknown and the stomach was empty. I now reflect that all this was
playing a game with my mind. If I think of it today, it wasn’t that bad. On
that day, however, it seemed like a never-ending road. I would instinctively
ask anybody who would be coming from the opposite side, how far Siwai was and
everybody used to tell me “2 hours”. After walking for almost 45 minutes
further, I met a villager and asked him, being hopeful, how far Siwai was. When
he said “2 hours” again, I almost gave up, tired of getting false estimates and
being hopeful of making it there. I finally ate some dry fruits that I was
carrying and had lots of water. To worsen the situation it was also hot and
sunny today, draining my body of the precious water.
To
top it all, while going through yet another lonely patches of sheep-trail, I
found the road split into two, both trails of equal width but not appearing to
meet each other. I waited for 2 minutes, hoping for someone to come from either
side. I couldn’t afford to wait longer as I had no knowledge of how far this
bloody Siwai was. And I couldn’t imagine not making it to Pokhara after so much
of pain and agony. I prayed to god and took the one going upward, hoping that
it would be the correct one. After walking for a few minutes, the trail
narrowed further and became a walk though some paddy fields. I was genuinely
worried now as I had stopped seeing a soul for quite some time now. ‘If I
realise that I’ve taken the wrong way, I would never be able to stand it’, I
thought to myself. Just when I was about to give up, I saw 3 people coming from
behind. I can’t describe how elated I felt, feeling like they’re angels sent by
god to take me in the right direction. One of them was a guide who confirmed
that we were on the right track. I felt overjoyed. It didn’t matter how much
farther the destination was. I let them pass ahead and kept on with my slow,
painful walk. To be honest, I had little energy left in me. I had almost
finished the water I was carrying and every step was getting difficult. It was
still some 40-45 minutes as per the guide’s estimate, which meant at least an
hour at my speed. I had no other option but to continue; as I was in the middle
of nowhere, having no sign of any restaurant or even any house. As I was about
to lose hope and almost give up despite being so close, I heard someone calling
my name aloud. I quickly turned around, seeing Bishnu (Remco and Anna’s guide)
calling me. We were both so happy to see each other. He told me that Remco and
Anna were following closely behind. I got the much-needed motivation. Remco and
Anna joined us and we covered the last 30-odd minutes of walk together,
chatting and sharing the experiences. When I saw the town and people there and
Bishnu confirmed that it was Siwai, I felt a sudden surge of power and I
started walking surprisingly faster towards the place where we would get a
vehicle. It was past 3:30 p.m. so the bus wasn’t going to be an option as the
next bus was supposedly after an hour or more.
We
reached the Taxi stand and I sat down, a mixture of emotions rushing through my
mind. Immensely tired and dehydrated, I sat for 5 minutes, without doing
anything. As I tried to get up, I couldn’t as my knees and ankles started
aching excruciatingly as soon as I tried to stand. I sat down again, realizing
that my body was taking its time too!!! After Bishnu finalized the fare, we
decided to take a Tata Sumo (a 7-seater) which we would take back to Pokhara.
Sitting on the front seat, I reflected on the last 8 days of trek I had just completed.
The feeling was mixed, with joy, ecstasy, pain, sense of achievement and
contentment all crowding around. I was above all satisfied that here I was,
having successfully completed one of the most amazing treks in the Himalayas,
all alone (though I made so many friends during the journey). It was as much
psychologically challenging as it was physically, if not more. I had not given
up, when there had been so many moments when I could have. Feeling a sense of
pride, I was relaxing and enjoying the view from the window. There was a
Spanish couple in the cab named David and Laura who had come back from ABC as
well. We shared our experiences and exchanged contacts.
There
was a feeling of peace, the one you get after completion of a difficult task,
and when it’s just over. We reached Pokhara at around 6:30 p.m. I was welcomed
by Kshitij who was alone at the guest house as the family had gone out. He too was
about to leave, after getting me checked in. I reached the hotel and took a
much needed, refreshing and rejuvenating hot shower. Feeling relaxed, I got
dressed up and left for dinner. I went to Fewa Paradise, a restaurant where I
found local song & dance being performed. I got myself onto a table I’d get
a good view from and ordered the local Apple cider. Sipping onto it, I was
enjoying the various songs, dances and other cultural performances. I also
tried the local delicacy, Chicken Sandheko, which was delicious. Stuffed
completely with a hearty meal, I returned to the guest house, feeling
contented. Lying on the bed, I was relishing various memories from the last 8
days and occasionally smiling at recollections of both funny and testing
moments. I was going to sleep with a different feeling in my mind, the one you
get after achieving what you had come to a place for. No regrets, no bad
memories. I was happy and didn’t realize when sleep came over me.
Part 3: CHITWAN
I had booked a
ticket on the bus to Chitwan through Harry’s contact and the bus was about to
leave at 8:30. First time in last 8 days, I was a bit relaxed in the morning. I
first couldn’t digest the fact that I didn’t have to start walking. Having the
tasty breakfast accompanied by tea, I prepared myself for the departure. Once
again thanking the family for their hospitality and support, I left by the cab
which had arrived. I took some pictures of Harry, his family and also the guest
house premises. Upon arrival at the bus stand, I was awestruck by the amazing
view I saw just as I got down from the cab. I could see the entire Annapurna
range and the Machhapuchhare, right from the bus stand!!! I was astonished as
none of it was visible when I had arrived from Kathmandu. I greedily took
pictures with both the phone camera as well as the DSLR.
Meeting
new people had become a kind of norm by now. I chatted with a Canadian
gentleman who had come to Nepal for the 3rd time, now with his
20-year old son. I wondered at the extent to which people travel. My seat was
in the 1st row, comfortable and easily accessible. For some time,
the driver tried cranking the bus to start but of no avail. After enquiring, I
got to know that the battery had died out as the A.C. had been kept on for a
long time before starting the engine. I laughed at the thoughtfulness. 7-8
people pushed the bus to help it start by getting it in the gear. The whole
process went on for 10 minutes without success when some other driver took the
seat and started it in the 1st go. We all clapped in enthusiasm. Yet
another different experience. I was loving all of it, although I was happier to
know that the bus had finally started. My neighbor was a Nepali girl who I
later gathered was a doctor in the making. She studied at the medical college
at Sauraha while her family stayed in Pokhara. Sauraha is the village just
outside the boundary of Chitwan National Park. We chatted on varied topics; covering
education, politics, Indo-Nepal relations, legislature, travel, geography and
many other topics. It was enjoyable and pretty interesting to know the state of
the nation which, for many, is just a tourist destination. We debated over what
the government should do and also about the necessity to conserve the natural resources
which were thankfully in abundance.
We
reached Sauraha by 2:30 p.m. The guy from the guest house had come to pick me
up. The climate was a stark contrast to what I had experienced in Pokhara or
during the ABC trek. It was sunny, warm and humid. It was pretty similar to
what we have in the jungles of India around the same time. The hotel, ‘Chitwan
Safari Camp & Lodge’, was a nice and cozy resort, set within a dense cover
of trees and having a feel of being situated in the forest. I checked in and
proceeded to have lunch after getting freshened up. While having lunch, I
enquired about the various activities I could do and the charges for it.
Bishnu, the guide whom I had met during ABC trek, had arrived in Sauraha too. I
contacted him and he came to my hotel by around 4:30 p.m. He obviously gave me
better rates and I decided to take the jungle tour with him. There was nothing
much to do that day, so Bishnu said he could take me into the borderline areas
of the forest where he would show me the Elephant center, the river and a few
other things. Ankle still paining, I was finding it slightly difficult to walk
and it was paining at every step I took. Nevertheless, I didn’t want to waste
my time lazily in the room. We both set out for a stroll. The proximity to the
jungle is amazing as there’s only a narrow river separating the park from the
village, unlike a fence or a gate. We saw many elephants tied to pillars. They
belonged to the forest department and are used for patrolling. Just being in
the lap of nature excites me and even walking through the grassy paths;
watching elephants, peacocks and other birds cheered me up. I forgot about the
pain I had, for time being. While walking along the river bank, we also spotted
a crocodile, lazily resting on the other bank. This was the 1st
glimpse of the wild life. We saw the sun set at the horizon and then turned
towards the village. I met Bishnu’s partners and had a nice chat with them over
tea.
I
wanted to get fresh and also wanted to put on shoes as the flip-flops weren’t
any good for walking on such uneven terrain. After resting for half an hour in
the room, we set out to the village, to watch the Tharu Cultural show. Tharu
are the indigenous people of the park who have been living there for decades,
their ways of life hardly altered. The show was to promote their art forms and
culture, the money generated from which would go in enriching their life. It
was arranged in a comfortable, air conditioned hall. I bought the ticket and
sat in the 2nd row. The show started on time, with Tharu ladies
presenting their traditional dance. It was followed by another dance, the
complexity increasing from the earlier one. Then there was a group of men who
performed a dance which involved thick bamboo sticks which they juggled with,
occasionally coming dangerously close to each other yet never hitting each
other. The coordination and uniformity was impressive and the audience started
clapping more enthusiastically with every next performance. The highlight of
the show was the peacock dance wherein the man wearing the elaborate costume
impersonating a peacock performed a brilliant dance on the beats of the song
being played in the background. It was so lifelike that people literally
shouted, whistled and gave a standing ovation when the dance was over. I
captured various pictures and videos which I would keep as memories and also
show my friends and family. I had momos for dinner (which were delicious by the
way) and retired to my room, deciding to start on a Canoe ride and Jungle walk
with Bishnu and his friend on the next day.
The
day started with a pleasant chirping of birds, reminding me where I was. I got
ready and waited for Bishnu after having an early breakfast. Bishnu came to
pick me up and we proceeded to the place where we would get the entry permit.
Buying the permit quickly (as we were already delayed by almost an hour, thanks
to Bishnu arriving late) we hastened to the boating shack. Much to our dismay,
all the canoes were already full, pre-booked by guides paying extra and
securing exclusive boats for their clients. We had to go to another place where
we would get a canoe. I confirmed with Bishnu whether we would get to enter the
same jungle as from the other way; as I was mainly interested in the jungle
walk. Bishnu comforted me and assured me a satisfactory experience. I felt a
bit relaxed with his confident reassurance. We finally got a canoe and the 4 of
us (Bishnu, Dipak the other guide, me and the boatman) boarded the canoe. Canoe
ride is an experience in itself, I must say, as it’s so narrow and you sit
inches from water. It’s made from the trunk of a single tree and carved out
with precision, ensuring stability. You need to sit right in the middle as even
slight imbalance might turn the canoe over. Settled in our positions, we
started cruising along the river. Bishnu started telling me information about
the species of flora and fauna in the park. We spotted many tropical birds such
as Stork Kingfisher, Oriole, Egret, Eagle, Stork etc. while sailing along.
We
also spotted a big, rough rock near our canoe which, upon close examination,
turned out to be a crocodile! I was thrilled as this was the 1st
time I was witnessing a wild crocodile from just 20-30 feet away, sitting in a
canoe which the crocodile could easily topple if she wanted. Bishnu told me
that, although rare, there have been instances when the crocs charge the
canoes. Praying that our canoe doesn’t happen to be that rare one, we
proceeded. The river was so shallow at some places that you could easily see
the bottom and the aquatic plants coming out from the surface.
After
a journey of about 40-45 minutes, we reached the river bank where we would
alight in order to enter the actual park. This was the 1st time I
was going to experience a Jungle walk as I had never entered any wild territory
on foot. There are no jungle walks available in the Tiger conservation regions
in India for obvious reasons. I was amazed at how they allowed tourists to
enter a region which also housed a good population of tigers. I was excited,
however, to get the thrilling experience. For those who have not done it yet,
it is my request to try it at least once. You are on foot, sharing the same
territory as all wild animals, including the Tigers, Rhinos, Deer, Leopards,
Bears and all other animals, birds and insects. It is so exciting to know that
you might literally bump into any of these animals at any moment. The guide
briefed me about the Dos and Don’ts of the Jungle walk. Talking has to be kept
to a bare minimum. You need to always occupy a position between the 2 guides,
one moving ahead of you and one at the back. I was alone, so we had the freedom
to move in any direction as I had befriended the two guides. Dipak swapped his
position with Bishnu, moving to the front as he was the more experienced one in
tracking. He silently moved along. Chitwan national park is particularly famous
for the extremely rare One-horned Rhinos. The only other place in the world
where they’re found in the wild is Kaziranga National Park in Assam, India. I
was praying strongly to get at least a glimpse of a rhino. I had seen many
tigers in my successful visit to Bandhavgarh National Park in India, from very
close as well. So, I was even keener on spotting a wild rhino this time. We
walked for around an hour without spotting anything, save for a glimpse of a
spotted deer. I had not come here to watch a spotted deer. I respected the laws
of wildlife safari; as I knew it was all about chance. We could see rhino dung
virtually everywhere, indicating a frequent maneuver through the region. Bishnu
had told me the earlier night that the rhino also walks on the main street
inside the village almost every evening. I had not spotted it, however, and
hence was eager to spot one here in the wild. After walking further, almost for
another half an hour, walking through grass, shrubs and thorny bushes, we
reached a waterhole. We took a break and Dipak thought for a moment. He then
took us further inside; hoping to spot a rhino near one of the waterholes he
knew.
After
walking for just a few minutes, he suddenly paused without making any sound,
indicating me to walk right behind him. I quickly moved without making any
sound, too excited yet sane enough not to spoil the moment. He told me to get
behind the tree in front of him and instructed me to have a look. Through the
bushes, I could see a large head perched atop a massive body, standing still. I
was incredibly overjoyed. Here I was, less than 20 yards from a fully grown
Rhino, on foot. My heart started beating way faster and I forgot about any pain
I had. I started clicking photos with my DSLR and also taking eyefuls of the
majestic creature. He moved from our left to right, cautiously.
Rhinos
have an excellent hearing but a poor eye sight. So I wasn’t sure whether he had
seen me although I was staring right into his eyes from behind the tree. After
walking a few steps, however, he suddenly retreated, startled by something. I
considered myself so lucky to have captured this whole episode on camera
through a 1 minute video. He then stood motionless and then resumed his walk
along the same path. As he passed to our right, I felt like following him in
order to get more pictures but was held back by Dipak. He told me that rhinos
are very short tempered and are known to have charged and even killed humans.
Thoroughly happy with the encounter, we marched along in the direction of the
village as it was already past 10 and getting hotter. I had got a sighting of
rhino better than I had imagined. My purpose of visiting Chitwan was fulfilled.
I hugged and thanked both of them for showing me the beast in the wild. There
was no canoe while going back, which meant that we would have to cross the
river on foot. I was skeptical as it would need removal of shoes and also
risking getting totally wet. And then there were the crocs as well. Fortunately
enough, we met a few forest officials crossing the river, back from their
patrol. Bishnu requested the officials to give us a lift and much to my
delight, they agreed. I got a free elephant ride. Just as we were crossing the
river, Bishnu started talking excitedly about 2 more rhinos being nearby. I
couldn’t believe my good fortune. Quickly alighting from the giant pachyderm, I
almost ran along the coast of the river. No sooner did I go a few yards, I saw
2 rhinos indeed! One of them was right in front, and another further down the
river. I had the luxury of photographing as much as I wanted, as I was safe on
the banks while they relaxed in the water. They must’ve been enjoying their
daily baths. It allowed me, however, to get some awesome clicks. One of the
rhinos walked out, onto the other side of the river, giving me a full view of
the majestic animal.
Thoroughly
satisfied, I walked towards my hotel, thanking Bishnu and Dipak again. I even
gave them a nice tip for exceeding my expectations. I spent the entire
remaining day chilling at the resort, helping myself to chilled beer and
delicious food. I slept for an hour or so, taking the much needed rest. Evening
was spent with Bishnu as it was his birthday, coincidentally. He was happy that
I got to see the rhinos, as he had figured how mad I am about wildlife.
Enjoying and wishing him a long life, I retired to my room after dinner. I also
bid him goodbye as I would be leaving the next morning. He seemed happy to have
met a person who respected him and his country truly.
I
woke up at 6, getting ready by 7:30 in order to catch the bus at 8. The bus
journey gave me an opportunity to meet even more people as we all shared our
experience in the wild. There were 2 American couples and a group of 3 Chinese
girls sitting nearby. They were all amazed on watching the video I had shot,
congratulating me for being lucky enough. Unfortunately, they hadn’t seen any
rhino during their jungle walks. The Americans were particularly surprised to
notice my knowledge about their country. I secretly thanked the Hollywood
movies and series that I had watched! The bus journey itself was one of the
longest, despite the distance being the shortest. We reached Kathmandu by 4:30
p.m., almost 2 hours late. I was irritated as I had not had lunch, hoping to
have it in Kathmandu. Thankfully, all the buses I had travelled by were comfy
and truly air conditioned. Tired of the journey, I walked to the hotel slightly
annoyed. I had informed Dhana that I’d be coming back. The Trekkers’ home,
however, was full causing me further irritation. Dhana said he would arrange a
room for me in another hotel that he managed, at the same rate. I nodded and
followed the guy who took me to the other hotel. The room was average, at best.
I didn’t complain, however, as it was just a question of one night. I took bath
and left for having Lunner (A mix of
Lunch and Dinner) as it was almost 5 p.m. I didn’t want to experiment and
headed straight to Yang Ling. I ordered chicken momos which were delicious as
ever. I then thought of trying some other Tibetan dish and ordered Thukpa, which is a soup with flat pasta.
Finally my hunger satiated, I walked out satisfied. I did some shopping, buying
authentic Nepali stuff for myself and my family. When I returned to my room, I
was barely left with enough cash to last me till airport the next day. 100% of
my expenditure had been in cash, which caused depletion of my cash reserves to
dangerously low levels. Deciding not to spend any more, I started packing.
The next day I
had brunch at one of the nice patisseries, enjoying a mix of doughnuts, patties
and tea. As I readied myself to leave for the airport, I started reflecting on
the stay I had enjoyed in Nepal. Nepali people, as per my observation are very
friendly and majorly honest and hardworking. The almost complete dependence of
their economy of tourism fascinated as well as troubled me. ‘It’s too risky’, I
thought. Boarding the cab, I realized that I hadn’t visited the famous Pashupatinath temple. On the way to the
airport, the cab driver showed me the enormous premises of the temple. Folding
my hands into a Namaste, I prayed. Having
gone through the check-in formalities, I met the Canadian father-son duo again.
I chatted with them till they announced the boarding of their flight. My
boarding was announced minutes later. I was going through the entire 14-day
period. All alone, going to Nepal, I had hoped to have a good time. I had had
an amazing time and more than my share of excitement, exhilaration, thrill,
ecstasy and above all, self realization. I had figured that no task is too
difficult, leave alone impossible, if you’re hell bent on doing it. Thoroughly
happy about the decision to visit Nepal, do the ABC trek and the Chitwan visit;
I boarded the Jet Airways flight destined for Mumbai. As we took off, I was presented with one
of the most magnificent sights I had seen in my whole life, of the pristine
Himalayan peaks, rising above the clouds, waving a goodbye to me, urging me to
come back again…
~THE END~
